· By D Millar

5 Tips for Buying Vintage Watches

Owning a classic watch is much like collecting vinyl records—both offer a deeply tactile, analogue experience that resonates with those who value craftsmanship, nostalgia, and heritage. Just as the warmth of a vinyl record can stir memories and emotion, a vintage timepiece can evoke the era it was made in and hint at the lives of its previous owners. It's not just about telling time—it's about telling a story.

While digital and smartwatches certainly serve their purpose in today’s fast-paced world, they lack the soul of a mechanical watch. Holding an automatic or manual-wind watch, you’re not just checking the hour; you’re holding a piece of history.


As with record collecting, condition is everything. Just as collectors evaluate vinyl using a grading scale—looking for scratches, warps, or worn-out sleeves—watch collectors must assess dial condition, case integrity, originality of parts, and servicing. A shiny case means little if the movement has been neglected or if the hands and dial have been replaced with inauthentic parts. Has it the original box, guarantee and receipt?

If you’re thinking about starting your journey into vintage watches, consider these five guiding principles:

1.    Buy What You Love
Let your personal taste guide you. Whether it’s a sleek 1960s dress watch or a rugged 1970s dive watch, passion should come before profit. A watch you connect with emotionally will always bring more satisfaction than one bought purely as an investment. Research, research and research.
2.    Mechanical Over Quartz
While some vintage quartz watches have their niche, mechanical timepieces (manual or automatic) generally retain value better and are more appreciated by collectors. They represent true watchmaking tradition.

3. Condition and Service History Matters
A watch in excellent cosmetic condition with a documented service history is always preferable. Is there service receipts? Avoid overly polished cases or redialled watches unless you’re buying with full awareness and intent.

4. Watch the Size
For years, watches over 40mm dominated the market. Now, there’s a renewed interest in more modestly sized watches—especially classic 60s and 70s models that typically measure 36–38mm.        

5. Purpose and Durability
Decide whether you want a daily companion or an occasional showpiece. Dress watches with delicate finishes may not be ideal for daily wear, while solid watches—such as chronographs or divers—often offer greater durability and versatility.

This kind of ownership comes with responsibility. Like vintage hi-fi equipment or a classic car, a vintage watch needs care and attention to perform well over time. Mechanical watches require periodic maintenance—typically every 5-8 years—including cleaning, regulation, and light lubrication. Dust seals degrade, gears wear, and parts occasionally need replacing. That’s why buying from a trusted seller with a trained service team is a major advantage. A watch that’s been properly serviced is not only more reliable but often more valuable.
 
Embarking on the journey of watch collecting is as rewarding as it is intricate. Each timepiece is a conversation starter, a wearable artifact, and a tribute to mechanical ingenuity. 

Much like crate-digging for rare records, the hunt is part of the joy—each discovery adding to your personal collection of meaningful objects that stand the test of time.

Two places to begin are ‘Webbs Auction House’, in Mt Eden and ‘About Time’, Remuera, both in Auckland.
 
Cheers
David and Otis.

 

0 comments

Leave a comment

Please note, comments must be approved before they are published